Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Mont Saint-Michel, France





Le Mont Saint-Michel is a rocky tidal island and a commune in Normandy, France. It is located approximately one kilometre off the country's north coast, at the mouth of the Couesnon River near Avranches. The population of the island is 50, which is about the same as my home town so I can relate. However, based on how pretty it is I don't doubt that the amount of tourists at least triple the population everyday. It was also one of the first places to become a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.

Mont Saint-Michel has a very expansive history starting all the way in the sixth and seventh centuries as an Armorican stronghold or Romano-Breton culture and power. Before the construction of the first monastic establishment in the 8th century, the island was called "monte tombe". According to legend, St. Michael the Archangel appeared to St. Aubtert, Bishop of Avranches, in 708 and instructed him to build a church on the rocky islet. Aubert repeatedly ignored the angel's instruction, until St. Michael burned a hole in the bishop's skull with his finger. Better do as St. Michael tells you. The Benedictine Abbey became an important pilgrimage site.

Access to the island is by car, bus, train and by bike. Yes, bike. Free parking and beautiful views, it takes about 20mins from Pontorson along the causeway.Which sounds like nice ride, particularly if you do not have cyclophobia like me. Yes, stupid fear I know. Once on the island the only way to get around it on foot. The Porte de l'Avancée, the main gate at the end of the causeway, leads straight to the Grande Rue, which is packed chock-a-block with souvenir shops and tourists. Escape right up the stairs to the ramparts, which are a little less packed and offer great views of the mudflats. The lesser-used Porte Eschaugette, to the left of the main gate, is the quietest route up. All three routes converge at the Abbey on top of the island. I personally am thinking the Porte Eschaugette because I like to be alone with my thoughts, but you can use whichever route suits you and I'll meet you at the Abbey.

Abbey of Mont Saint Michel (L'Abbaye du Mont-Saint-Michel), once a humble little monastery, the island and its fortifications have effectively grown up around this. The Abbey has Romanesque crypts and nave there is a Flamboyant Gothic choir. During the French Revolution, the abbey was used a prison, and an extensive restoration was required to restore it. A few prison-era showpieces, like the human hamster wheel used to lift supplies in and out of the complex, have been kept. Prisoners include Victor Hugo. Mass is celebrated daily except Monday at 12.15PM. There is also the Notre-Dame Sous Terre Chapel. The Carolingian church named Chapelle Notre-Dame-sous-Terre or Our Lady underground was built around 966 by the first Benedictine monks at the very place of the oratory erected by Saint-Aubert in the early 18th century.

As for food, the culinary specialties of Mont Saint Michel are omelettes, whipped until frothy and light, and saltmarsh lamb (agneau de Pré Salé) dishes from the sheep that wander around the coast. Which is probably delicious except I do not like eggs, but I'll try anything one. I, however, must have pastries if I'm in France. I'm thinking an Apricot Tarte. And for you?

Extra Info on the Abbey:
Open 2 May - 30 August 9am-7pm (last admission 6pm), 1 September - 30 April 9:30am-6pm (last admission 5pm), admission (unguided visits): €8.5 adult, €5 18-25 yrs (free for citizens of the EU), and free for under 18s. closed 1 January, 1 May and 25 December, €4 audio guide (French, English, German, Spanish, Italian).

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